Freak Waves

C

craner

Beast of Burden
The thing I liked about it was seeing the waves from the perspective of people who have lived in the town before the waves were world famous.
 
IdleRich

IdleRich

IdleRich
There are a load of women you see in that town wearing traditional dress that looks like peasant garb from another century.
 
M

mind_philip

saw the light
There's a documentary series about Garret McNamara and Nazare on HBO over here at the moment. Another terrifying individual. He reminds me of the climber Alex Honnold. They don't exude confidence, they exude certainty. Which is pretty fucking strange considering what they're doing and the consequences of being wrong.
 
C

craner

Beast of Burden
He's a legitimate psycho:

SNELL: You know, there are several moments in the series where we watch your whole body disappear inside the barrel of a wave and then come out in the spray. You know, I've been wondering since I started watching this what it looks like when you're on the inside. Are you able to kind of take in the moment, or does it pass too quickly?

MCNAMARA: Oh, it's so beautiful. It's like time stands still. You can feel your heart beating. You can almost hear it at times. And it's like you're in your own little world, and you just - it's like eternity, but then it's so quick. And you're looking out of the hole trying to make it back out into the world. And at times, you get so deep, and there's a curve in the barrel, and you can't see out. And, you know, I think all of us surfers, our happy place, the place we like more than anywhere on the wave is in the barrel. And so I named my son - he's 6 now. His name is Barrel.

 
Mr. Tea

Mr. Tea

Let's Talk About Ceps
craner said:
Who?

I only just found out that Alec “Ace Cool” Cooke died in 2015 surfing 25ft Waimea alone at the age of 59.
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"Ace Cool." Fantastic. Nobody earns the nickname "Ace Cool" by being really good at programming, do they?

As the undercurrent pulled him down, I bet he thought "I'm about to die, but people unironically call me 'Ace Cool', and how many people can say that?"
 
C

craner

Beast of Burden
Mr. Tea said:
"Ace Cool." Fantastic. Nobody earns the nickname "Ace Cool" by being really good at programming, do they?

As the undercurrent pulled him down, I bet he thought "I'm about to die, but people unironically call me 'Ace Cool', and how many people can say that?"
Click to expand...

He wanted to be Surfing's Evil Kneivel and was once dropped from a helicopter onto a wave at Outer Pipeline with his board and an oxygen tank in the effort to catch the biggest wave ever ridden. This was in 1985, before the advent of tow-in surfing. The picture from that day became a postcard that sold millions:

thebiggestwave.jpg

The rest of the Hawaiian Big Wave crew (Ken Bradshaw, Darrick Doerner, etc.) thought he was an idiot and hated him. For one thing, they thought he was full of shit. Doerner once told him to "talk less, surf more". Bradshaw had surfed bigger, including the mythical 85ft monster at Outside Log Cabins that was only witnessed by a few people but all of who said it was the biggest thing they had ever seen surfed.

But as Bohdi put it, "If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price. It's not tragic to die doing what you love."

That's how Ace Cool did it in the end and nobody can take that away from him.
 
Mr. Tea

Mr. Tea

Let's Talk About Ceps
craner said:
He wanted to be Surfing's Evil Kneivel and was once dropped from a helicopter onto a wave at Outer Pipeline with his board and an oxygen tank in the effort to catch the biggest wave ever ridden. This was in 1985, before the advent of tow-in surfing. The picture from that day became a postcard that sold millions:

View attachment 14408

The rest of the Hawaiian Big Wave crew (Ken Bradshaw, Darrick Doerner, etc.) thought he was an idiot and hated him. For one thing, they thought he was full of shit. Doerner once told him to "talk less, surf more". Bradshaw had surfed bigger, including the mythical 85ft monster at Outside Log Cabins that was only witnessed by a few people but all of who said it was the biggest thing they had ever seen surfed.

But as Bohdi put it, "If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price. It's not tragic to die doing what you love."

That's how Ace Cool did it in the end and nobody can take that away from him.
Click to expand...
I've wasted my life.
 
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