Halfway through now and getting more out of it. The chapter where it goes all Conrad and a group goes on an expedition to study giant centipedes is really good. I thought I'd become desensitised to the nastiness in his books, but some of the cults and sacrifices are really unpleasant. There's this image someone finds on an ancient piece of parchment of a giant centipede clambering atop a restrained man that's just horrifying, particularly when a couple of characters manage to infiltrate an actual instance of the ritual and he describes the thing coming skittering out into the arena.
I don't particularly like centipedes, but I don't have some sort of pronounced fear of them either. It's impressive how frightening he manages to make them, really gets his phobia across to the reader. There's a great bit where he talks about staying in some hut with a giant spider and being woken up by it being locked in mortal combat with a giant centipede and them all cheering on their friend, 'Arachnid'.