I think the European brands that ravers (me included) took to their hearts, kick started the craze.
Chevignon, Chipie and Naf Naf spring to mind.
They said things like "class of '76 sport lovers, yeah" and "dream the life, live it well. Go Go Go".
I went to Harvey Nichols a few years ago to treat myself to a nice top. I ended up with the ONLY garment in the shop that didn't appear to have been torn at by angry monkeys and squirted with bleach.
And those jeans that have heavy rub marks on the thighs. WTF.