There are very few more evocative smells than Sherry. The brown sherries, or Olorosos, are aged and oxidised so that in place of youthful vim the aromas of autumn emerge: roasted nuts, burnt caramel, wood, and the sweet decay of leather and library books. I caught a fleeting glimpse of this perfume recently on tasting a dry white wine from one of the Sherry adjacent towns, Montilla-Moriles that, unlike Sherry, had been made without adding fortifying alcohol. The grape responsible was Pedro Ximenez, better known for making luscious sweet wines, that had been fermented to dryness and then aged in clay amphorae, called tinajas locally, with the presence of the magical flower, or flor, forming like a veil over the wine as it matured. It was unusual and excellent.
Flor has been the subject of much fascination and study, as it only manifests itself in certain places, and in particular conditions. When this unpredictable shield of wild, ambient yeasts grows over the maturing wine the process that follows is known as biological ageing, a frankly unattractive descriptor. Without the presence of air, the volatile compounds in the wine produce all kinds of strange and evocative aromas that to the uninitiated may seem so uncommon as to raise alarm, or worse trigger a negative sense memory of a knackered cheap sherry being thrust at one during a family Christmas. These aldehydes are quite an acquired taste, but as Sherry sales plummet a new generation of dry white or orange wines aged under flor are all the rage from the Jerez triangle.
These are genuinely exciting wines and it’s well worth challenging your taste buds to discover their enchanting complexity. They can be sipped meditatively or matched with some deeply-flavoured dishes. Here are a few more flor-influenced wines that have caught our attention recently, as well as a few outliers from Sherry country that you should know. |
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Alvear 3 Miradas Vino de Pueblo 2021, Montilla-Moriles, Andalucía
Whilst tapas can be found all around Spain, and each autonomous region will argue it is their own creation, nowhere is tapas culture more pertinent than in Andalusia. So much so, in fact, that in many of the bars here, tapas is provided complimentary with each drink order! One such dish that we think this fascinating wine would pair almost perfectly with is Albóndigas en salsa de Almendras, or the local speciality of meatballs in an almond sauce.
£20.20 online and instore |
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Barbadillo Toto Espumoso de Albariza Brut 2022, Andalucía
The powerful solar radiation that beats down on Andalucía creates harsh growing conditions. However, cooling sea breezes and the iconic chalky albariza soil, carved into the hills, create an environment perfect for growing vines that thrive under struggle. Whilst not influenced by flor, like the other wines seen here, it spends time ageing on dead yeast cells – or lees – the same process used in Champagne. As they break down during ageing, they provide the wine with rich biscuit and dough aromas. Alongside this, the terroir imparts an incredibly food-friendly salinity. A perfect apéritif, served with the olives and almonds that grow alongside these vines in the south of Spain.
£22.70 online and instore |
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Diatomists Manzanilla, Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Diatomist are on the front line of the Sherry revolution, where winemakers from the region are attempting to reshape perceptions through reinventions of the classics, as well as innovations. This is no exception. From the famous albariza chalk soils of the Pago de Miraflores, where the vines grow within sight of the sea, this single-vineyard Manzanilla carries a salty, marine freshness. Clear, bright flavoured and briny, it is perfect for almonds, olives and seafood.
£16.80 (half bottle) online and instore |
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Vignoble Guillaume Cuvée des Archeveques, Franche-Comté
Vin Jaune originates in the Jura region. It is made from the esoteric Savagnin grape and must spend six years and three months under flor – or voile, as it is called in French. The barrels remain untouched, veiled in mystery, where alchemical reactions occur to create one of the world's most complex wines. Every year in the region, a festival is held where the barrels are opened.
This is an example made using the exact same grape and process by our friend Xavier Guillaume, who is based in Franche-Comté, just an hour north of Jura. Its partner in crime is comté cheese; and, for the truly gastronomic, a Vin Jaune–Comté cream sauce can be made – a truly hedonistic experience.
£47.60 online and instore |
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Roc des Anges Alqumia Vin de Voile blanc NV, Côtes de Roussillon
The parched, rugged, and windy area of Roussillon is the French half of the Catalan Pyrenees. When viewed as one region, the Catalan area reveals clear similarities in grape varieties. Made from Grenache Gris and Macabeu, this cuvée's genesis was novel. The winemakers at Roc des Anges discovered a barrel from their 2017 harvest under a layer of flor. Whilst Sherry is traditionally made from neutral grape varieties like Palomino to allow the beauty of flor to take centre stage, here the more expressive varieties produce apple and mineral aromas that sing in harmony with the salty and chamomile notes of the flor. This would be even more harmonious when paired with barbecued fish doused in butter and Mediterranean herbs. |
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